| Jeep TB Conversion for 2gnt Eclipse/Talon
By MetalJim
The stock 2gnt TB is 52mm. The throttle bodies for 90�s Jeep 4.0L I6 are 55-60mm.More air means more fuel means more POWAH!!!The good news is that the Jeep TB can be modified to fit on our cars. The donor TB in this write-up is for a 91-95 Jeep Wrangler, Cherokee, or Grand Cherokee, but any TB from a 91-99 will work. I bought it used for $60 on eBay. If the donor is used then this mod is relatively cheap � compared to having the stocker bored, or buying a bored TB, or buying a billet TB. It is, and will most likely remain, the cheapest way to get more air.
A new one will work but the costs are higher. Also, there are several outfits that offer 62mm bored Jeep TBs. Here is a link with some good aftermarket Jeep TB info:
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/
If you need some serious air then here are a couple of links for Jeep TB specialists:
http://www.accuratepower.com/
http://www.turbocity.com/
I want to explain the 55-60mm range. The inlets(filter side) on all of these Jeep TBs are 60mm, but some of them taper to 55mm on the outlet(manifold side). I don�t know for sure, but it may have something to do with what year the TB is for and/or weather or not it was made for an automatic or manual transmission. If all you want is 55mm then hey that�s great�but fear not! If you want 60mm then you shall have 60mm. I found a great write-up on removing the taper, and it turns out that the taper is easily removed � creating a nice 60mm bore through the entire TB. Mine started out with a 55mm taper, but now its gone. Nothing left but a beautiful gaping 60mm TB all the way through. Of course if you can manage to find a true 60mm Jeep TB then you won�t have to bother with the taper. Anyway - here�s the taper removal link:
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTBboring.htm.
There are some clearance issues. The Neuspeed bar � is a no-go with this TB. It simply will not fit with a Jeep TB. Also, there is approximately .4 inches clearance to the hood after it is installed.
The IAC housing is the highest point. The good news for those with � inch phenolic intake manifold spacers is that the TB juts toward a strength channel, which could easily be modified to allow a Jeep TB to fit.
One more thing before we get started. You�ll notice that the 2 TBs are kind of backwards from each other. The IAC is on the bottom of the 2gnt TB, but the Jeep one is on top. The throttle plates actuate in different directions � clockwise vs. counterclockwise. The 2gnt TB has 2 very deep mounting holes diagonally opposed, while the Jeep TB has a puny little 4-bolt base. Don�t worry - really, it�s ok.
Ok, enough about size, cost, options, tapers, caveats and funkiness - lets DO IT!
Remove all of the sensors as well as the butterfly plate, throttle shaft, and spring from both TBs. All of these bolts are Torx T20. The bolts on the 2gnt butterfly plate may shear when you take them out � the damn things are dimpled on the end. Take your time and work them back and forth, like you would when tapping a hole.
You�re going to use the 2gnt throttle shaft on our Frankenstein TB, so if the bolts do shear out � remove the remnants with an extractor.
Like I said, you need to use the 2gnt throttle shaft. However the slot needs to be widened to fit the Jeep butterfly (green slot lines � upper picture). I used a die grinder, but you could use a Dremel with a cutting wheel as well. The slot only needs to be widened enough to fit the new plate. I noticed a nice natural size marker on the 2gnt shaft � the bearing race marks. If you make the slot as wide as the bearing marks (green arrows � lower picture) the plate should slide right in.
�so that it looks like this.
You need to cut the spring seat (marked in green) so that our 2gnt shaft will fit far enough to install the butterfly into the Jeep TB. The seat is made out of a hard plastic and cuts easily with a utility knife if you just whittle thin chunks. That�s right, I whittled it. I just thought that would be the most precise way to do it. It actually didn�t take that long. A good reference mark to cut to is where the spring seat tapers to the shaft(line marked in red). So long as you cut enough away that the butterfly can be installed � that�s the real point. I kept checking my work as I got closer by inserting the shaft and placing the butterfly over top of it.
�till I could see through.
The base plate on the Jeep TB needs to be cut away so that our 2gnt throttle shaft can rotate freely to WOT (wide open throttle). Remove the idle-set screw from the Jeep TB cause it�s in the path of destruction. The section marked in red needs to be cut away. It is important to note here that you MUST keep the slot in marked in green. Don�t cut that slot out of the picture because we�ll need to secure the spring in there. It�s also important to note here that you MUST keep the last nub outlined in yellow. This is where we need to install the idle-set screw. The safest way to go on this one is by the eyeball and testing along the way. Cut enough away so that you can slide the butterfly plate into place. Make sure you have free and clear travel to WOT on the throttle shaft with the butterfly installed.
It should look something like this when you�re almost done.
Our new TB is going to use one Jeep spring. The stock Jeep spring is actually 2 springs banded together. Remove the band and separate them, cause we only need one.
In the next step we�ll be modifying the 2gnt shaft to fit the Jeep spring. The modification looks a bit hokey at first, so I�m going to explain the reasoning before we jump into it. I actually had a lot of problems with getting enough spring tension. The 2gnt TB comes with 2 springs, like the Jeep. The 2 springs together were too thick to fit, so my first spring attempt was 1 of the 2gnt springs, but it was too weak. It wouldn�t return to idle after it was installed. So I looked to the Jeep spring.
It worked fine at first when I was just kind of cruising around. But the first time I really mashed on it all of the sudden it wouldn�t return to idle easily. Turns out that the whole spring wasn�t effective � only part of it because its smaller in diameter than the 2gnt spring and it was binding up on the 2gnt spring seat. Look at the springs/spring seats side by side. The Jeep spring is thicker and smaller in diameter. You could also just go buy a bunch of springs until you find a setup that works. Personally, I felt compelled to source as many parts from the stock and donor TB. My conundrum was 2 springs don�t fit and one 2gnt spring is way too weak I was left with 2 choices � use the jeep spring seat on the 2gnt shaft, or modify the 2gnt spring seat so that the Jeep spring fit loosely on it. I chose to modify the 2gnt spring seat. You can probably cut the 2gnt spring seat down to the point where you can install one half of the Jeep spring seat on the 2gnt shaft�but I chose to modify the 2gnt spring seat � and it works great. So there you have it.
So, we need to cut the spring seat down so that the Jeep spring fits loosely on it. You�ll have to cut off the entire outer circle of plastic and then just a little bit of the radius beams. Again, it�s this hard plastic that can be cut pretty easily with a utility knife. At this point it will become blindingly obvious that the Jeep spring is backwards. What I mean is that instead of the spring getting smaller when the throttle actuates, it gets bigger. I�ve been running this setup for a few of weeks now with no spring tension problems. You�ll be done when you can easily slide the spring onto the newly cut seat.
At this point, it should start looking more like an actual TB. Please disregard the fact that I�m using the 2gnt spring in these pictures. Like I said � I had spring problems.
Remove the 55mm taper if you want to. I did it with a rotary file on a drill press. Big ol� whoppin 60mm TB all the way through. Ahhhhh. Follow the link at the top of this write-up for more detailed instructions on how to do it.
Moving right along. The bolts on the 2gnt TB are way to long to work on our puny little Jeep base. You�re going to need to buy M8x25 1.25 pitch Allen head bolts for mounting the new Jeep TB to our intake manifold. It�s very important that you get Allen head bolts because after you make the new mounting holes in the Jeep TB, there will be NO room for a regular hex head. The mounting holes on the 2gnt TB are just about 3.3 inches apart center to center. That falls just inside the edge on the Jeep holes. You need to drill new holes that are essentially centered over that imaginary 3.3-inch mark inside the edge on the Jeep holes. I used a 21/64th
inch bit in a drill press. It worked ok, but I did have to ream the holes a bit to get the bolts to actually screw into the manifold. When you�re fitting/reaming the TB to the manifold, make sure you ream equally on both holes. There really is not a lot of room from the edge of the hole to the housing by the time it fits.
You can use the 2gnt Throttle Position Sensor just like it is.
The Idle Air Control motors look pretty much identical, but the tips are different. You have to use the 2gnt IAC motor with the tip from the Jeep. The tips screw out. They�re in real tight, but they will unscrew. Take note of the tip height on the 2gnt sensor before taking it off.
When you install the Jeep tip on the 2gnt IAC, set it to the same tip height. I did, and it seemed to work very well (it idled properly the first time I fired it up).
One of the great benefits of using an OEM throttle body is the beautiful fitment of the butterfly plate within the bore. You�ll notice that when the throttle plate is shut, even if it is shut lightly, the plate will stick into the bore of the TB. It�s a perfect fit. When you crack it open feel that it�s stuck and you can hear it click getting unstuck. The fitment is nice, but the sticking has to go. That�s why the stockers have idle-set screws. Their purpose is to NOT allow the plate to stick in the bore when it closes. They need to be set to stop throttle shaft rotation just before the plate sticks. The reason is that, if you let the plate stick � off idle throttle response feels jumpy. It turns out that a �-20 hex head bolt fits the job perfectly.
Use a 13/64th drill bit to drill a hole in the nub we saved from our initial base plate work (the nub that was outlined in yellow). It needs to be pretty close to the outside edge. Leave enough material to support a threaded bolt. Then tap the hole with a �-20 tap. Run a nut on to your �-20 bolt � we need it to lock the idle-set screw. Then install the idle-set screw. Set it to where the butterfly no longer sticks into the bore of the TB and lock it in place with the lock nut.
One fairly drastic difference between the 2 throttle bodies are the idle air channel. The 2gnt TB uses a secondary port on the manifold where the Jeep uses a plate bypass. You need to plug the idle port on the manifold or else you�ll get mad vacuum leak and idle at 4000 RPM. The idle port on my 95 Eclipse RS manifold is a � inch big. I�m not sure if all of the holes are the same size on all of the years of 2gnt so please measure yours before buying a plug. Since mine was � an inch, I got a � inch button plug. Spread silicone on the lip of the plug and plug the hole. Shove it in there firmly and wipe off the excess silicone so it doesn�t get onto the gasket material when you install the TB.
Which brings me to the gasket. I used 1/16th inch thick gasket material to make the gasket.
It needs to be at least that thick because of the plug. The head on the button plug I used is not exactly thin. I needed to use a thick gasket material in order to get a good seal to the manifold. You can see the dimple made by the button plug in this picture. >We�re almost done. Take the assembled TB - latch it onto the throttle cable and bolt it up to the manifold with the gasket in place. Hook up the sensors. I know you want to fire it up but first you�ll need to adjust the throttle cable.
The shaft on the Jeep TB is a little further away from the intake manifold than the 2gnt stocker, so you�ll most likely need to adjust the cable a little. What you want to do is make sure that the throttle shaft clicks nicely onto the idle-set screw just like it would if you were holding the TB in your hand. Even when you test it for very small openings, like with a nudge, it should still click when it shuts. If it doesn�t click then the throttle cable is still to tight, loosen it up.
Ok now, LET IT RIP! What else can I say here? It should work like a charm. If it doesn�t, then you messed something up � check your work.
Other than that - You could ream the intake manifold out to match the new bore capability. I haven�t done that yet. The manifold inlet is somewhere around 55-57mm stock. I�m sure I�ll get around to match it up to my new TB at some point, probably sooner than later. I�m N/A right now. I do have other air flow mods � cheapo eBay short ram intake, drag cams, ported exhaust manifold, test pipe, and a GS-T exhaust. The power I got from upgrading to the Jeep TB definitely noticeable. I won�t get into the numbers because everyone�s setup is different, but I will say that I couldn�t be happier with the results.
Inarguably, for our cars, a TB upgrade is a good thing. 52mm just doesn�t quite cut it. How much bigger is up for debate. 55mm may be good for you. If it is don�t touch the taper. Maybe you want 57 or 60mm? Well then go nuts with the taper. You may want a 62mm bore job for a racecar. It�s doubtful at this point that a 68mm TB would be considered as anything other than overkill but there are aftermarket billet Jeep TBs of that size � and they could be fit to your 2gnt. Who knows � If Gary ever builds that aluminum race block, someone may actually NEED a 68mm TB.How much bigger is up to you and your setup.
I purchased a spare 2gnt TB to do this mod, but I can sell mine now that I don�t need it anymore. I wanted to make sure that the mod would work and was worthwhile before tearing my original TB to shreds. Really the only things I HAD to buy were the Jeep TB, 2 M8x25 1.25 pitch Allen head bolts, a � inch button plug and the gasket material�. because it does work, it is worthwile, and I already had all of the tools to do it. Oh I have to mention this - even a used one looks pretty tight after a bit of polishing with the Dremel.
Note: The part number for the 1991-1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L Throttle body is 53030844. The picture shows 53030846 which is the IAC housing and may be confusing if you are shopping for a throttle body.
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Last modified on 2009-02-06 17:52:34
by noboost
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